Providing high-quality care for any animal begins with a basic understanding of the behavioral needs of that species. Proper housing, handling, and even feeding is dependent upon knowledge of the species, and it is often helpful to ask ourselves, “What would this animal be doing if it were in the wild?”

Although the rabbit most likely to be kept as a pet is a domesticated animal, it has retained many of the behavioral characteristics of its wild ancestor, the European Rabbit (Oryctolagus cuniculus). It is most important to be aware of the fact that it is a prey animal, and it has numerous physiological and behavioral features that are appropriate for its lifestyle as a prey animal. Among these is an exquisite sense of smell and hearing. Its eyesight is most accurate at long distances.

Due to its excellent sense of smell, the rabbit may be particularly sensitive to the odors of strong disinfectants. While proper disinfection of the environment is critical to the health of all species that are moved in and out of a boarding facility, special attention should be given to ensuring that a recently cleaned cage has been well rinsed before introducing its occupant. In addition, good ventilation will be helpful to remove the strong scents of disinfectants as well as to prevent the buildup of ammonia (a byproduct of the natural breakdown of urine), which can be so irritating to many animals’ nasal passages and eyes.

The rabbit will be acutely aware of the odor of other animals in the facility and may be particularly distressed by the odors of predators like dogs and cats. For this reason, good ventilation will be critical, and ideally the rabbits should be housed in a room separate from other species. It may be impossible to ensure that the rabbit cannot hear the sounds of barking dogs, but an attempt to insulate their space so as to decrease the noise will be helpful for preventing stress. Even the tamest pet rabbit may be stressed by loud, unfamiliar noises, so care should be taken to house the rabbit somewhere where noises typical of a busy facility can be kept to minimum.

Housing
Rabbits can be housed in the same types of cages that might be used for a cat or small dog. They will typically use one area (usually a corner) of the cage for eliminating, so providing a small shallow litter pan will help to keep their cage clean. However, cat litter must not be provided for the rabbit, as it is common for them to eat the contents of their litter box. Compressed sawdust, shredded paper, straw, hay, peat moss, litter made from oats or alfalfa, and litter made from paper products or other substrates made especially for use with rabbits are recommended. If the rabbit does not use the litter pan, it is still relatively easy to clean up after because of the rabbit’s tendency to urinate in one spot. It may defecate in several locations throughout the cage, but rabbit pellets are relatively dry and easy to pick up and dispose.

Rabbits do engage in the behavior of coprophagy, which means they eat their own feces. It is important for rabbit caregivers to be aware that this is not only normal behavior but necessary for the rabbit’s good health. The feces eaten by the rabbit provides it with necessary nutrients, including vitamins B and K. Rabbit urine is also unique in that it is normally milky white and may even contain some yellow, orange, or red pigment. For someone unfamiliar with rabbits, this can be rather alarming the first time they see it.

The ancestor of the rabbit spends a great deal of its time underground or near the entrances to its burrow so that it can readily escape from a predator. The domesticated rabbit still maintains this same desire to be able to hide in order to feel safe and relaxed, so some type of “hide box” should be provided. Cardboard boxes and even brown paper sacks may be quite sufficient for this purpose, since they can simply be disposed of and replaced by a new one if they become soiled. Alternatively, commercially made plastic “houses” for rabbits to hide in are also available. Wooden structures of any type should be completely avoided, as the rabbit will chew on them and it is impossible to disinfect wooden materials completely.

Rabbits also have a very strong drive to dig and chew. Their feet and claws are especially well developed for digging tunnels, and their teeth are of the type that grow continuously, so they require a diet high in fiber in order to keep their teeth from becoming overgrown. Even if only boarded for a short time, the rabbit will benefit from an enriched environment that allows it to engage in its species-typical behaviors of digging and chewing. Small wooden blocks, branches from fruit trees that are known to be free of pesticides or herbicides, and even wooden toys sold as bird toys are all excellent choices for chewing objects for the rabbit. Rabbits can also be provided with baskets or cardboards boxes stuffed with hay or shredded paper for digging in and exploring.

Feeding
Rabbits are crepuscular by nature, meaning that they are most active during the early morning hours and in the evening right before dark. This is the time when you will see rabbits become most active. Given the right environment, rabbits may run and jump and play with items in their cages during this time. They will do most of their eating during this time, as well, which is one reason the fresh foods described below should be offered in the morning and evening.

Feeding the boarding rabbit may be best accomplished by asking pet owners to bring their own rabbit food, since maintaining a fresh stock of rabbit pellets may be challenging unless numerous rabbits are boarded at the facility. Ideally, rabbit feed should not be used if kept for more than six months, but keeping it in the freezer may help extend its shelf life to some degree. Rabbit food should be stored at temperatures no higher than 60 OF. The nutritional quality of pellets can be greatly affected by age, especially if the food is exposed to high temperatures.

Rabbit gastrointestinal health is extremely dependent upon a high fiber diet, and most adult non-breeding rabbits should be fed a pelleted rabbit feed containing a fiber content of 18% or greater and a maximum protein content of 16%. Pellets should only make up a small portion of the rabbit’s diet; about 1/8 to 1/2 cup daily, depending on the rabbit’s age and activity level, is appropriate. A good quality grass hay should then be offered to the rabbit every day. Treat mixes containing seeds and dried vegetables should be avoided. The rabbit’s diet should also be supplemented twice daily with a variety of greens and vegetables. Appropriate items include collard greens, mustard greens, endive, parsley, cilantro, carrots and carrot tops, brussel sprouts, green peppers, celery, romaine lettuce, bok choy, and radicchio. Iceberg lettuce should be avoided completely. Uneaten items should be removed twice daily before offering additional items.

Water bottles with sipper tubes made especially for rabbits are generally the safest way to offer water to the rabbit. Rabbits often knock over bowls and can subsequently suffer from a lack of water if not noticed immediately. Water bottles should be emptied and cleaned daily with hot soapy water. All uneaten food should be removed daily and food bowls cleaned with hot soapy water. Bottles and bowls should be disinfected between rabbit boarders.

Handling
Among its many unique physiological adaptations is the rabbit’s very lightweight skeleton. Combined with its powerful musculature, this makes it quite easy for the rabbit to be injured by rough handling. In addition, the rabbit can leap away with such force that, if panicked, it can break its own back. Therefore, when handling the rabbit, one should always be sure to hold the rabbit firmly with both hands, supporting both its rear end and its front end. The rabbit can easily be tucked against your abdomen as you transport it so that one hand covers its eyes. This may also help the rabbit feel more secure and be less likely to attempt to struggle. When returning a rabbit to its cage, it should be turned so that its rear end is placed into the cage with its front end still facing the handler. This prevents the rabbit from leaping away in a panic and possibly injuring itself.

Rabbits rarely bite unless they feel extremely threatened, but their large teeth can inflict a very painful bite. If not handled regularly and gently, rabbits tend to remain fearful of handling, and they may struggle when being picked up. When struggling, they can inflict painful scratches with their strong feet and claws. Repeated experiences of being handled in a way that makes the rabbit feel insecure increases the chance that it will struggle when people attempt to pick it up.

Offering the rabbit very small bites of special food treats every time it is handled can be very useful to teach the rabbit that good things happen when people approach. These treats can consist of small pieces (no larger than an English pea) of carrots, apple, melon, strawberries, blueberries, or papaya. These treats should be limited to less than one tablespoon per five pounds of body weight daily. If the rabbit develops diarrhea, stop feeding treats immediately.

Rabbits that are not spayed or neutered have the tendency to develop some territorial aggression. On occasion, these rabbits may be very aggressive about someone opening their cage and reaching to pick up the rabbit. The rabbit may growl, stomp its feet and leap forward, swatting with its front feet, and possibly biting. If you must care for one of these rabbits, the best recourse is to avoid removing it from its cage and wear gloves while replacing the litter pan and food and water bowls. If the rabbit must be moved, using a large, thick terry cloth towel to wrap it gently and lift it into another cage can usually keep one safe from the rabbit’s sharp claws.

Signs of Illness or Pain
Rabbits normally spend a large part of their day lying inactive and resting, so recognizing when one is ill requires some observational skills on the part of the caretaker. If uncomfortable or ill, they are more likely to spend long periods of time lying in one position, sometimes stretched out and other times hunched up, depending on where their pain is located. Sometimes rabbits will grind their teeth when they are in pain. They may also suddenly become more aggressive and resist any handling. If a rabbit stops eating for 24 hours, stops producing fecal pellets, develops diarrhea, or exhibits a head tilt or nasal discharge, a veterinarian should be contacted immediately.

While not as numerous as dogs and cats, rabbits are very popular pets, and many people keep their pet rabbits indoors and consider them members of the family. These pet owners are more likely to seek out a boarding facility when they must leave their pet for extended periods of time. Any facility that shows knowledge of and an interest in catering to the needs of the pet rabbit will be more likely to get and keep that pet owner’s business.

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